BATTICALOA, Sri Lanka - Ganesan is a rare man in
Sri Lanka.
He is a father, husband,
and the only psychiatrist for 1.3 million of the
world's most traumatized people. His roving
practice along this island nation's eastern shore
stretches over 150 miles, all of it devastated by
last week's tsunami.
Even before the tidal
wave, when his clients were one of the world's
most suicide-prone populations, his practice was
filled with paranoid schizophrenics,
manic-depressives, rape victims and thousands of
torture victims from the civil war (one subset of
patients: people with pencils jammed in both ears
simultaneously).
Now add to that the
families of more than 15,000 tsunami fatalities in
the region. Tens of thousands of homeless,
jobless, destitute refugees. Orphans in the
hundreds.
There is a time for cognitive psychotherapy in
an office with dim lights, a box of tissues and
50-minute sessions. Then there is a time for a
psychiatrist of international education and
experience to leap into the trenches.
"To talk about psychological needs when you've got
thousands of people using one toilet in a refugee
camp -- it's absurd," says Ganesan, who goes by
one name as is common here, talking above the din
in the office where he is coordinating medical
supplies for refugees. "It's not what a doctor
should do."
In these traumatic days, Ganesan has tossed dozens
of corpses into the back of his pickup,
distributed medicine to children, coordinated
efforts of hundreds of foreign aid workers from
dozens of countries, buried a friend and, just for
a moment yesterday, had a quiet session with a
violently psychotic young man crippled by
delusions and drug addiction.
"His actual workload is at the hospital, but he's
volunteering everywhere," says S.J. Thiruchelvam,
the regional manager for World Vision, a nonprofit
charitable organization that has helped Ganesan
develop the area's first mental ward. "He's done a
marvelous job in the whole district since he
arrived."
There are moments when life reveals itself,
insight reached through periods of great suffering
and hardship. In the spiritual sense, the first
teaching of Buddhism, the principal religion of
this nation, is that life is suffering and that
this cannot be avoided.
This is the lesson that Ganesan has come to
understand in his time on this leeward shore: To
suffer is to survive. To bear it with grace and
courage is to live.
Telephones jangling
Three or four phones are jangling in the regional
government medical office, the nerve center for
relief efforts on the coast. Ten or 12 people are
having conversations at once. Fingers are tapping
out e-mails and memos on four computers perched on
the edges of desks. Three men have just walked in
with donated copy machines, a printer, toner and
too many cardboard boxes to count.
Across the hallway, there is a stockroom with
shelves packed with thousands of newly donated
bottles of ibuprofen, tetracycline, diazepam,
paracetamol, amoxicillin, potassium chloride,
chlorphenamine, cloxacillin, syringes, gauze and
mounds of bandages.
Ganesan traverses this temporary office, making
sure things wind up in the right place, at the
right time, and in the right hands.
It's hectic, and Ganesan, a handsome, balding man
of 41, is keeping up by talking into his cell
phone constantly, calling out to co-workers,
stepping into the courtyard to argue with the
hospital director and speeding across town in his
four-door pickup for a generator and a small
refrigerator. The days start at sunrise and go
late into the night. He smiles often, laughs, is
gregarious under pressure -- of which there is
plenty.
Written on a whiteboard in the corner is a
shorthand list of the latest agencies to parachute
into town:
Yale University
Indian Medical Group
Northwest Medical Team
Kandy Teaching Hospital
Colombo Medical Professional Group
MDM -- Greece
Malaysia Medical Group
Canadian Medical Group
Polonnaruwa Medical Professionals
This does not count the local and international
agencies that already have offices in the area
from the civil war -- the U.S. Agency for
International Development, the World Health
Organization, UNICEF, the International Red Cross,
Oxfam, CARE, and the national and local Sri Lankan
groups.
There were 81 such organizations before the
tsunami.
He has no idea how many there are now.
Ganesan's job, for which he volunteered and is not
paid, is to connect this onslaught of
international aid -- all of it earnest and well
meaning and completely ignorant of the situation
on the ground -- with specific camps or
individuals.
There are dozens of offers from dozens of
countries for teams of grief counselors, but
Ganesan tries to talk them out of it. The time for
such therapy, he says, is weeks or months into the
future, not during the immediate crisis.
Still, it can work out. Here's one example, in an
interior village:
"Vakari is desperate for medical help, but they
have no doctors," he says, tapping out each step
on a piece of paper. "The Malaysians offered a
medical team, but they had no money. The World
Health Organization had money, but no team. I know
people at all three, so I connected the dots, and
now the Malaysians are going to Vakari for eight
weeks."
Too many doctors
That was good, but the continuing problem is that
too many people want to come right now. They want
to jump on a plane and be here tomorrow. That is
wonderful -- burned-out Batticaloa needs help --
but there are already more doctors in town than
anybody knows what to do with, and not everything
is a success story.
There was the unfortunate incident of the Korean
team of a dozen physicians who parachuted into
town. Only one spoke English. They were able to
find one man in a refugee camp who spoke English,
Tamil and Sinhalese. They did not bring enough
medicine, so they had to rely on local pharmacies.
This resulted in a translation and pharmacological
mix-up in which one of the good doctors thought he
was giving children vitamin syrup to drink. It was
actually calamine lotion.
"At least we found out it won't kill you," Ganesan
bursts out, slapping a knee.
You've got to laugh around here because when he
arrived in 1999, few knew what a psychiatrist was.
There had not been one in the war-ravaged district
for more than 20 years.
An ethnic Tamil, Ganesan was born in the far north
of the country, in Jaffna. He married his college
sweetheart, Shanatini, in the capital, Colombo,
while they both studied medicine, and the couple
moved to England to practice.
The pay was marvelous -- his salary was about
$75,000 a year -- but it was unsatisfying. He
would come home from the office feeling like he'd
worked all day but not done much.
"We wanted to be of use," he says now. "And we
belonged here."
So Shanatini and he came home, had a child and
took up grueling tasks: She became the only
pediatrician for a region of 500,000; he became
the sole psychiatrist for more than a million.
His government salary: about $300 a month, a pay
cut of roughly 95 percent.
If patients did not know to come to him, he went
to them. He worked with children's agencies, with
groups that campaigned against violence toward
women. He saw all the attempted suicide patients
and the war torture victims that he could. He set
up 16 clinics in cities along the coast and spent
a third of each month on the road.
The work was and is overwhelming.
There were and are days when he has six or seven
attempted suicides -- swallowing poison being the
favored local method -- a national problem whose
basic causes still escape him. There have been
years when Sri Lanka has been the world leader in
suicides per capita, a fact that makes him shake
his head.
There are also at least 20,000 torture victims in
the region, says Ananda Galapatti, a friend of
Ganesan and local counselor who has published in
international journals about psychological relief
work. That number does not include traumatized
children and the shell-shocked and those suffering
from post-traumatic stress disorder.
Working mental ward
"If you wanted to undertake a traditional
psychiatric practice of seeing patients one on one
for an hour here -- well, you'd need thousands of
doctors," Galapatti says.
So Ganesan set up local volunteers to conduct talk
sessions or simply to play games with children, or
he enlisted family members to help with mentally
disturbed adults. With help from World Vision he
was able to set up a working mental ward in the
back of the city's hospital grounds.
The one-story, concrete building has steel cots
with vinyl-covered mattresses and a rough-hewn
wooden bench for a dining table. In the front
courtyard, he constructed a quiet garden by
planting trees, and built a small pool for
goldfish and later a gazebo.
He let the patients' family stay with them. He
opened all the doors and let patients, some seven
to 10 of whom stay there at a time, go where they
wanted.
When the tsunami hit, Ganesan and his family were
inland several miles on a motorcycle day trip. By
nightfall, he was back in the city, first taking
the injured to the hospital in the back of his
truck, then returning again and again to pick up
corpses.
"I remember the smell, the stench of it all, and
the swish sound of throwing the bodies in the
truck," he says, stopping during a tour of the
hospital ward. "There were bodies of babies,
infants. Bodies of women."
Ganesan assesses his own mental health to be
pretty fair.
"I don't sleep much, but it's because I'm so
busy," he says. "Perhaps if I had nothing to do, I
would be sleepless and think about all the damage
and grief. This seems to be the better use of
time."
For a moment, here on the ward, the catastrophe
feels far away. He walks outside to sit by the
small goldfish pond. Two young female patients
approach. Both are Muslim and both are
manic-depressives. They brighten at his smile, at
a small bit of conversation.
It lasts only a minute.
There is a call from the office. A young man has
just brought in his brother. The brother has
hallucinations. He beats up his elderly parents.
The family has spent a fortune on traditional
cures, none of which has worked.
So in the aftermath of one of the worst modern
natural disasters, the young man has traveled by
boat, bus and car for eight hours, all the way up
the shattered coast of Sri Lanka, to get his
brother to Batticaloa.
Ganesan puts the world's biggest crisis on hold.
He pulls up a chair and opens a notebook and
speaks softly to the brother. He begins to make
notes.
What is helping the many, if you cannot help but
one?
© 2005 The Washington Post
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